Textile texts: Gods in splendor and people in gray

It begins with a spontaneous decision to visit Stuttgart. The plan for the evening is set – we’re going to the theater, with a cheap student discount. As soon as you are on the street, you end up in the tangle of textiles. The main station, still a construction site, is pulsating: the diversions bring together all arrivals and departures on the narrow platforms. Different types of materials are unintentionally close together. The rolling of suitcases mixes with shouting announcements and loud phone calls. Here everyone is more or less on their own – perhaps only united in the rush and hectic pace.

Next to the train station, the path to the theater leads through a choir in red jerseys, the next crowd. And once you immerse yourself in the red swarm you realize: Here everyone belongs together without compromise. They stream in from everywhere, already in small groups, cavorting around, occupying all the beer garden sets in front of the big screen, all united and close to each other to support their team – and cheers to that! Here you sweat under the polyester, and that also creates a bond, because these jerseys are important for showing your colors.

The material polyester only became popular in the 70s, thanks to Adidas, the heavy cotton jerseys were finally replaced and the new sports clothing was literally easier to wear for the players. In addition to the moisture wicking function, other advantages were quickly recognized. The sponsors, in particular, were excited about the opportunity to enter the polyester with bright colors and more complex designs. Further commercialization ultimately made the jerseys the number one fan item in the 80s and 90s.

But now quickly scurried on. Behind them in the park suddenly the loud clacking of hooves on the asphalt. A few uniformed men patrol in dark blue on the backs of large thoroughbreds. Wherever the crowds are, the law enforcement officers are not far away. This habitus on a high horse seems like a relic from a bygone era – the helmets fit, so does the baton, the dark blue stands for power and authority. While the jackets and pants were once made of heavy cotton, today’s uniforms are often made of blends that combine polyester and cotton to ensure breathability, durability and freedom of movement. The mounted police also wear riding breeches and boots. You are silently looked down upon and allowed to pass – or rather, you are passed.

In front of the theater, a completely different picture: elegant handbags swinging from the arms, loose linen trousers in pastel tones and green Adidas sneakers combine casual elegance with urban cool, accentuated by subtle lipstick and black glasses. Here, in front of the glass foyer, there is no uniformed but clearly recognizable group; Gathered around the bar tables, people literally sip their wine glasses. Finely woven, high-quality linen was already a sign of purity, wealth and elegance in ancient times, while coarse linen served functional purposes in the lower classes, especially in the Middle Ages. Today, linen is considered particularly sustainable and ecologically conscious.

We continue into the theater hall, where a textile thunderstorm unfolds, especially on the stage: bright green full-body jumpsuit, pompous gold dress with oversized puffed sleeves, expansive tulle under a skull-printed long-sleeve, flaming shoes and red patent high heels – contrasted by a choir beige pleated trousers. As if the motto of the Oedipus production were gods in splendor and people in gray.

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Here fashion becomes art. On stage, the materials take on a symbolic and narrative function. And what cannot be missing on a stage is clearly tulle. It not only caused a stir in 20th century ballet, but also developed as an important material in the fashion world, from veils and petticoats for romantic wedding wear to the creative shapes on catwalks in avant-garde design.

You set off unsuspectingly into a warm summer evening and suddenly notice: clothes clearly mark who belongs where – in front of the screen, on horseback, in the auditorium, on the stage. And clothing apparently determines who has what job – shouting, controlling, clapping, playing. The textiles create a kind of unspoken belonging, a group feeling and a facilitated recognition of oneself in the anonymity of the crowd. In a society that follows less and less rigid conventions, fashion remains an important means of communication. It tells about social classes, personal preferences and cultural trends. There are the places of planned meetings, but also the places of unwanted mixing of substances. Textiles are a personal, but above all a general means of expressing belonging and differentiation.